Babylon restaurant, London

On a sunlit summer's evening in London, there are few more pleasant places to be than on the terrace at Babylon, The Roof Gardens' 7th floor restaurant. Sitting 30m (100ft) above the frantic shoppers of High Street Kensington, and boasting panoramic views over the capital, animated tables of stylish clientele and an equally manicured trio of gardens just below, Babylon offers truly delightful dining.

Looking down upon the charming English Woodland garden, one of the venue's three famous patches of greenery designed by architect Ralph Hancock, we accept our waitress's recommendation of a sparkling pink rosé from Kent, and take in the still evening amid pristine wood and crisp white tablecloths. Inside, shimmering lime green furnishings and soft recessed lighting offer a fresh and modern dining area, exceptionally well tended to by a slick operation of waiting staff.

Any doubt that Babylon might rely on its strikingly unique setting to impress customers vanishes with the arrival of our starters: crab cocktail, a tender portion of Cornish crab atop a pool of avocado and lime purée, and the other, a perfect pair of plump sautéed diver scallops with a sprinkling of smoked bacon on a firm bed of crushed peas and broad beans.

Equally as refreshing as these clean, colourful dishes and rooftop surrounds, is the simplicity of Babylon's menu: a single page of well-conceived and supremely executed dishes, meaning less time menu-trawling, and more spent taking in the skyline.

A chilled glass of Gewurztraminer from Babylon's extensive wine list complimented my sea bass main perfectly, the punchy white wine cutting through the dish's brased fennel and pernod sauce, without overpowering the accompanying black olive tapenade.

My partner's roast lamb rump, sliced and served with an aubergine chutney, spring onions and Madeira jus, came glisteningly tender, and new potatoes and a fresh tomato salad to share were the ideal summery accompaniments.

After filling up on fresh ingredients, a decadent dessert seemed a rite of passage, and the sweet-toothed will find much happiness in the Babylon dessert selection: an array of delectable bites from the restaurant's perfected desserts, including a light and fluffy lemon meringue tart, sugary rum cake, creamy panna cotta, and a devilishly chocolaty chocolate marquise.

Those preferring a savoury end to the evening can choose between a selection of British cheeses, or a mixed cheese board for two, both accompanied by Orkney oatcakes, apple chutney, fresh grapes and celery.

Impressed to the last, we left Babylon with the sun setting over London and The Roof Gardens' club - a popular haunt of the rich and stylish - beginning to fill. Heading back down to street level in the smoothest and quietest lift known to man, and waved off with a friendly cheerio from the door staff, it was clear this place really is outstanding, from start to finish.

Babylon Restaurant
The Roof Gardens
99 Kensington High Street, London W8 5SA, UK
Tel: (020) 7368 3993
Website: www.roofgardens.virgin.com

Homely comfort

A café-restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2 offers a relaxed setting for quiet enjoyment of good food and drink.

There is nothing about its facade to suggest that the Mekong Merchant Café is anything special, or even that it is a café or a restaurant or a bar. But it is that very aspect of not being pretentious that appeals.


Located in District 2’s An Phu Ward, the café offers the perfect ambience to relax and unwind after a hard day’s work. From National Highway 1A, the section near Saigon Bridge, turn and go into the Thao Dien residential quarter of An Phu Ward and you will see it at 23 Thao Dien Street.

The restaurant is separated from the street by a low fence and its front yard is shaded by a tropical almond tree with a large canopy. Its underplayed facade belies the café’s interior design, which is beautiful. Many architecture and home décor magazines have featured this café.

The café is designed as a garden house, so the homely feel is very strong. One cannot fail to be calmed by its quiet and cool atmosphere. The Nipa palm leaf-tiled roofs, walls painted with dark colors, windows with knobs, and an old tiled yard covered with moss reflect a beguiling old-age beauty.

The furniture arrangement that seems carefully haphazard is another appealing feature enhanced by tables and chairs made partly of water hyacinths. The farthest room has much space for black and white photographs of streets and local people’s everyday lives. In front, household products such as furniture, baskets and flower pots are displayed and sold.

Given the special ambience, the Mekong Merchant Café is reasonably priced. Prices for foods and drinks range from VND10,000-40,000 (US$0.6-2.2) each.

Run by a British expatriate who has a similar establishment in District 2, the café can seat more than 100 people. It opens every day from 7 a.m.-11 p.m.

The story of “ran moi”

Two kilometers from the Cau Ke township market in the Mekong Delta province of Tra Vinh, my uncle’s garden was a boundless mysterious world to any children like me. “Ran moi”, a kind of lizard, remained the most interesting creature in the garden and was usually found behind rotten straw or damp soil piles.

Ran moi looks like a domestic gray lizard, or gecko, but is a little bigger. Its body is covered by a brown, shiny, scaly coat which makes the reptile both scary and attractive. Ran moi always disappear quickly when spotted by a human.

Over the years I have traveled a lot and have enjoyed eating many specialties throughout the Mekong Delta, except for ran moi. It stays on my mind as a mysterious creature in my uncle’s garden.

Last spring vacation I got a chance to visit the coconut region of Ben Tre and was offered the shredded ran moi dish at a small eatery. I was afraid at first but then was amazed at how delicious the dish was! Ran moi meat is as white as chicken and is served with sweet sliced turnip, pickles and hot and sour fish sauce.

It is not easy to prepare ran moi. The scaly coat and guts are removed and it is then stuffed with peanuts. It is then roasted on a coal cooker by high and then low heat. Finally, the cooked meat is shredded by hand and mixed with other ingredients like shredded chicken salad.

Residents of Dong Thap Province catch ran moi with a noose connected to a small bamboo trunk. It is usually deep-fried, cooked with brine or made into a dim sum dish.

Ran moi is now a specialty at many HCMC restaurants and the favorite food of many local and foreign gourmets. Some popular dishes are deep-fried ran moi, green bean porridge with ran moi and ran moi curry.

Chefs have different ways to remove the scaly coat. Some bury it under ash, others boil it in water then roast it to easily divest the skin and make the meat more delicious.

Source SGT

Sensing flavors of Phan Thiet Seafood

Phan Thiet City is famous for its stunning beaches, white sand dunes and many tourist attractions. It has also gained a reputation for its cuisine, especially seafood specialties, and for its trademark fish sauce.

Vietnam is internationally acknowledged for its diverse seafood, with squid being one of the most popular items on many menus. Phan Thiet City has built its image on a particular squid dish known as sun-dried squid, which has attracted many chefs and revelers to the city.

Muc mot nang is fresh squid that has been dried in the sun for one day. The squid, grilled with chilies and lemon and served in fish sauce, is available anywhere in the city but one of the best places to try this tasty specialty is Cay Bang Restaurant.

Another local favorite is steamed bo hom fish, nicknamed “Thiet giap bien” (sea armour) because of its square shape and the patterns on its body. It is sweet, juicy and nutritious, especially when combined with the flavors of aromatic herbs, salty fish sauce and sweet Phu Long griddle cake. Revelers can enjoy bo hom at many of the eateries on Pham Van Dong Street along Ca Ty River.

While steamed bo hom fish is typically a low-priced dish, steamed mu fish, mixed with fravegetables and fish sauce prepared with lemon, sugar, garlic and chilies, is more expensive and provides high nutrition. Toan Duong Restaurant near Doi Duong beach and Sao Bien Restaurant are two of the more popular venues for this dish.

In addition to distinctive seafood Phan Thiet is also known for recipes made with dong. The dong is a reptile shaped like a lizard found in and around the sand dunes. It is served grilled, steamed, fried or minced with citronella and chilly at seafood restaurants around Hon Rom resort. Ca Ty Restaurant is famous for its grilled dong.

Cay Bang Restaurant is located on Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City.

Toan Duong Restaurant is located at 164 Le Loi Street, Hung Long Ward, Phan Thiet City (near Doi Duong Beach).

Ca Ty Restaurant is at 40 Phan Boi Chau Street, Duc Nghia Ward, Phan Thiet City.

Sao Bien Restaurant is at 22 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City.

Source SGT