‘Mainland Ha Long Bay’ without the tourism bustle

Visit Thung Nai once and you are hooked. It will be the place you will think of almost every time you want to take a couple of days off and lose yourself in beauty and serenity that only unspoilt nature can provide.

Thung Nai Commune, the “Ha Long Bay on the Mainland,” lies on the Da River in the northwestern mountainous province of Hoa Binh, just 100 km from Hanoi. Since the Hoa Binh Hydroelectric plant on the Da River was completed in 1994, the rising waters have made the mountains on the site of the reservoir become beautiful islands. “Our village is still wild and tranquil without any effects of the tourism industry,” says Thach, a Kinh ethnic resident in Thung Nai, which houses a large number of the Muong ethnic minority people. “Most travelers come here to visit Ban Mu (Mu Village) of the Muong people and go hiking in the forest. They also never miss a boat trip, in which they can either fish or reach the isolated islands on the Da River. The commune has some remote Muong villages that are yet to have access to electricity. The only means to get in touch with them is by boat. At sunset, the river’s calm surface is soaked in purple hues as it reflects the stunning colors in the sky. Quoc Hung, a freelance photographer, says: “I have taken hundreds of photos here. I am captivated every single time by the peaceful and romantic landscape, with just three or four boats sailing at leisure on the river. The view of the ‘islands’ and the ‘bay’ is just magnificent. On full moon days the whole river is inlaid with gold.” Thung Nai is a favorite place for Hung and his poet friends who love to spend the night on the river, imbibing local wine and fish dishes. Their muses seem to have a fondness for the spot. Thung Nai is not yet equipped with professional tourism facilities or hospitalities, except for a popular house called Coi Xay Gio, located on the river banks. From Hanoi, drive along National Highway No. 6 for about two hours to get to the Da River hydroelectric dam, which is just 5 km from the Binh Thanh river port and Thung Nai Commune. Local residents will help you find the spot.